PARIS (AP) 鈥� The cobblestoned banks of the Seine River served as the stage for Chanel鈥檚 latest haute couture collection. With the Eiffel Tower in the distance, the well-heeled glitterati of the fashion world navigated the uneven terrain for an outdoor collection that celebrated the soul of Paris.
Mimicking the famed bouquinistes, those charming bookstalls lining the river鈥檚 edge, Chanel erected its own renditions. But upon closer examination, these weren't ordinary stalls. They were artfully curated homages to the brand鈥檚 legacy, showcasing biographies of the legendary Gabrielle 鈥淐oco鈥� Chanel and postcards of actresses associated with the house, such as Vanessa Paradis, a modern incarnation of the Parisienne, who applauded from the front row.
Here are some highlights of Tuesday鈥檚 fall couture collections, including when The Associated Press caught up with French actress Cl茅mence Po茅sy.
CHANEL鈥橲 PARIS
鈥淭his collection is the portrait of a sensitive yet bold Parisienne," said Virginie Viard, Chanel's creative director. "It鈥檚 like standing on a line between strength and delicacy.鈥�
Tuesday's assembly of tweeds, silk chiffons, organza and inlaid lace, in a myriad of floral and graphic motifs, was a testament to Viard鈥檚 vision of this rich and feminine universe.
Despite the sparkle and gleam of golden heels and buttons, the collection embraced a comforting simplicity.
Assured yet understated colors, flat-pleated golden tweed skirts, masculine-inspired overcoats, and delicately structured jackets all played into the subtle allure of the show. A standout piece was a dark blue asymmetrical coat-skirt with feathery tulle cascading from the lapel, fusing asymmetry with Chanel鈥檚 codes of rigor.
At one point, a model sauntered down the runway walking a black dog, a seemingly whimsical addition that had onlookers snapping away on their cameras. But perhaps the most quintessential Parisian touch was a fruit basket 鈥� a homage to the Parisienne of the 1970s.
Viard described her approach as, 鈥淗anding down emotions, bringing the most unlikely elements together, doing things your own way, just dreaming.鈥� And through this collection, she masterfully transported us all to Paris, offering an emotional tribute to the enduring allure of the Parisienne, right on the quayside of the Seine.
POESY ON CHANEL鈥橲 BOOKSTALLS: 鈥楴OT YOUR USUAL BOUQUINISTE!
French actress and 鈥淗arry Potter鈥� alum Cl茅mence Po茅sy was in attendance at Chanel, and it seems the allure of the Seine-side 鈥渂ouquinistes鈥� had her under a spell. The scene, recreated by the house, was a charming tribute to Paris鈥� iconic riverside bookshops, so beloved by locals and tourists alike.
鈥淭here was a Parisian essence, being on the quayside of the Seine and having the bouquinistes in the beginning,鈥� Po茅sy told the AP, her eyes alight with the magic of the show. 鈥淚t felt like traveling through many eras of Parisians.鈥�
The actress was especially enchanted by the French stalwart's playful nod to Paris鈥� past, which invoked images of both the 鈥�70s and new wave cinema. But it was the bouquinistes 鈥� a regular fixture of her weekends 鈥� that truly captivated her.
鈥淵ou stroll along the Seine and go into all these vintage and secondhand bookshops along the river and bridges,鈥� she explained, recalling her routine. 鈥淵ou usually find something you would never buy anywhere else.鈥�
Chanel鈥檚 unique on-brand installation, she chuckled, was decidedly 鈥渘ot your usual bouquiniste.鈥� She added, with a fond smile, 鈥淚 hope it stays there forever. It鈥檚 such a precious thing.鈥�
LOVE STORY BEHIND CHANEL鈥橲 LITTLE BLACK DRESS
French actress Anna Mouglalis, known for her role as Chanel in the movie 鈥淐oco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky,鈥� unraveled the romantic tale behind the creation of the iconic little black dress (LBD) in an interview with the AP.
Mouglalis, a current Chanel ambassador, said: 鈥淚 fell in love with Coco Chanel when I studied for the role. I read everything."
Mouglalis disclosed the heartbreaking story behind Chanel鈥檚 universally adored LBD. Coco Chanel, devastated by the tragic death of her lover, Arthur 鈥淏oy鈥� Capel, incorporated her mourning attire into her fashion line, giving birth to the LBD. Capel, apart from being Chanel鈥檚 great love, was also instrumental in helping her open her first store.
鈥淚t was incredible that the little black dress was made because she was mourning for Boy Capel. She never married. She loved him, it was her big love,鈥� Mouglalis shared. 鈥淪he was wounded and put the mourning into her fashions. Everything is so linked to her personal story.鈥�
AN EXCLUSIVE NIGHT WITH GIORGIO ARMANI PRIV脡
A rare commodity in the couture world - space - was generously offered by Giorgio Armani Priv茅 on Tuesday night. VIPs gathered amid theatrical sidelights, hemmed in by giant beige silk curtains, emphasizing the private, exclusive nature of the occasion. The scene was set on a runway streaked with shiny squares of black and white, an ode to Armani鈥檚 couture trademark of geometry and sheen.
The collection unfolded, a vibrant blossoming of structured jackets shimmering with twinkling threads and 3D floral appliqu茅s, transforming seamlessly into billowing, gleaming floor-length gowns. One standout blue jacket, encrusted with jewels, evoked visions of marine crystal formations, showcasing Armani鈥檚 detail-oriented craftsmanship.
Playful whimsy punctuated the collection with sculptural, giant black hoops encircling one model鈥檚 figure, as well as one slightly awkwardly-moving top constructed in poppies. The gleam remained constant, a kaleidoscope of rainbow hues reflecting off the luxurious fabrics.
However, amidst the extravagant display, a minimalist yet stunning black velvet dress stole the show. Couture鈥檚 chic answer to Morticia Addams, the floor-length gown was backless, tastefully embellished at the rear. It was a stunning reminder that in the world of Armani, simple elegance often outshines the grandeur.
MABILLE鈥橲 MODERN PARISIAN FASHION FETE
Imagine an elite Parisian fashion party; a blend of modern sophistication, effortless glamour, and a dash of playful spirit. This is the essence Alexis Mabille captured in his fall couture.
From the get-go, Mabille set the tone with a black floor-length dress that danced the line between fluidity and allure. Models graced the runway holding empty crystal champagne coupes, conjuring up images of a high-fashion soiree in the City of Light.
Playfulness met artistry as Mabille used his signature bows to sculpt a dress, while his enduring love for floral themes bloomed as white chest adornments.
As Parisian as a moonlit walk along the Seine, the collection boasted lacy bustiers atop sheer black Sahara pants, conjuring a modern yet sensual aesthetic.
In a pulse-quickening turn, the collection ignited with disco-era vigor. A radiant, earth-toned one-shoulder tunic gown brought a hint of the dancefloor to the runway, and a '70s-inspired magenta pleated skirt swirled with lively movement.
ST脡PHANE ROLLAND IS BOLD AND POETIC
In true unapologetic St茅phane Rolland fashion, a Big Black Dress (BBD) opened his fall couture show. Complete with a provocative leg split and an exaggerated, whooshing collar, this piece was quintessentially Rolland, marrying structural audacity with elegant form.
The collection evolved from this daring opener, introducing more poetic designs that nonetheless maintained Rolland鈥檚 raciness.
One gargantuan white skirt was fashioned from paper-like sheets of silk. In a triumphant fusion of Marie Antoinette鈥檚 lavishness, punk鈥檚 rebellious spirit, and origami鈥檚 meticulous precision, this ensemble captured the whimsy and grandeur that define Rolland鈥檚 couture.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
