PARIS (AP) 鈥� A giant empty cage greeted Chanel鈥檚 guests at its return to the Grand Palais venue on Tuesday. Though perhaps not intentionally symbolic, the d茅cor seemed to capture the current state of the house itself: a majestic structure empty of creative direction. With Virginie Viard鈥檚 recent departure, Chanel finds itself at a crossroads, as the fashion world eagerly awaits the appointment of a new creative leader.
Meanwhile, in a powerful step toward embracing diversity, Chanel announced as its newest ambassador. The appointment of the Oscar-winning actor, who identifies as Kenyan-Mexican, comes at a pivotal moment for the French fashion house that had faced criticism in the past for its lack of inclusivity. This move follows the widely-lauded appointment of British-Indian Leena Nair as Chanel鈥檚 global chief executive in January 2022, making her the only woman of color at the helm of a major luxury brand.
Here are some highlights of spring-summer ready-to-wear shows:
Chanel: seeking a vision beyond the emp
ty cage
The spring collection delivered many familiar elements from Chanel鈥檚 vast repertoire 鈥� chiffon capes, slit skirts, embroidered transparent shirt dresses, trench coats adorned with multicolored feather prints, aviator jackets with Peter Pan collars, total pink or blue tweed looks, and the iconic little black dress (LBD) that Chanel herself introduced to the world. Tweed, jersey, faille, transparent embroidery, sequins, fringe, pastel knits, and sparkling platform shoes all made an appearance, forming a showcase of the house鈥檚 signatures.
Yet despite the breadth and richness of the offering, something was amiss. There was little cohesion, and at times, the collection lacked the unmistakable soul that once characterized Chanel鈥檚 shows. A series of foulard-printed gowns seemed out of place 鈥� as if borrowed clumsily from another narrative altogether.
With a snip of scissors, Gabrielle 鈥淐oco鈥� Chanel freed women from their corsets. Today, Chanel itself needs liberation. The applause at the end of the show, which featured designs that often felt uninspired, was distinctly muted, with critics visibly shifting in their seats.
Star appearances by Elvis Presley鈥檚 granddaughter Riley Keough, who capped the show with a funky vocal performance of a Prince hit from inside the gilded cage, as well as interviews given by Lupita Nyong鈥檕, Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Vanessa Paradis, Margaret Qualley, Naomi Campbell, and Erykah Badu, seemed like an effort to divert attention from the elephant 鈥� or the empty cage 鈥� in the room.
Chanel is unquestionably a fashion juggernaut, and it will weather this moment of transition. However, there is no overstating the importance of the decision the house now faces. Chanel must find a designer who can reshape and redefine its vision for the future 鈥� someone who can capture the spirit of creativity and innovation that has been the essence of Chanel since its founding.
The fashion world is rife with speculation. Potential successors include Daniel Roseberry, known for his dramatic work at Schiaparelli, Marc Jacobs, a seasoned classicist with Paris experience, and Nad猫ge Vanh茅e, the skilled designer from Herm猫s.
Viard, ousted this summer, succeeded Karl Lagerfeld upon his death in 2019 and was his closest collaborator for decades. She had overseen record sales for Chanel, reaching a reported $19.7 billion last year. Ready-to-wear sales reportedly increased 23% during her tenure.
Viard was only the third creative director in Chanel鈥檚 over 100-year history, following Lagerfeld and legendary founder Chanel herself.
Lupita Nyong鈥檕 named Chanel ambassador
Speaking with the Associated Press, Nyong鈥檕 shared her excitement and the deep sense of responsibility accompanying the new role. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a great honor,鈥� she said. 鈥淐hanel is a legacy brand with a long history. And to be the newest face of it feels monumental. I feel very, very proud and excited to take this new journey with a brand that I think is dynamic and always feminine and regal.鈥�
Nyong鈥檕鈥檚 appointment comes as a breath of fresh air in an industry criticized for lack of diversity and reluctance to change. The number of Black designers leading heritage houses remains alarmingly low 鈥� currently only Balmain鈥檚 Olivier Rousteing and Louis Vuitton men鈥檚 designer Pharrell Williams hold such positions in Parisian legacy brands.
For Nyong鈥檕, joining Chanel is about more than wearing beautiful clothes 鈥� it鈥檚 about contributing to a narrative shift in fashion. 鈥淭he message that I bring naturally and deliberately to the role is that things have changed. And we don鈥檛 want them to go back to what they once were,鈥� she said.
Nyong鈥檕 drew inspiration from watching a recent documentary about Bethann Hardison, the iconic model and activist who was at the forefront of pushing for diversity in fashion during the 1960s and 1970s. Hardison, who rose to prominence after her appearance at the historic 1973 Battle of Versailles 鈥� a groundbreaking fashion show that brought American designers into the spotlight 鈥� became one of the first high-profile Black models and an outspoken advocate for change.
鈥淚n that documentary, I was really alarmed to see how much work had been done to diversify the fashion industry, but then how much it reverted to monoculture in the following years,鈥� Nyong鈥檕 said.
Hardison鈥檚 tireless efforts led to significant gains for Black models in the past, but the subsequent regression underscored how fragile those victories could be. Her fight for inclusivity in fashion serves as both a cautionary tale and a source of inspiration for Nyong鈥檕, who now finds herself continuing Hardison鈥檚 legacy.
鈥淚t took a step back, so for me that was testament to the fact that it takes consciousness. It鈥檚 a conscious effort that has to be made on a daily basis and in present time. You don鈥檛 fix it once and then hope it stays that way,鈥� Nyong鈥檕 added. She sees Chanel鈥檚 decision to name her as an ambassador as part of a broader, deliberate declaration: 鈥淚 feel like these movements that Chanel is making are part of declaring a desire to represent a more realistic world. And I鈥檓 proud to be one of those faces that is sending that message.鈥�
The importance of visibility in reshaping perceptions cannot be understated.
鈥淲hen I was growing up, I didn鈥檛 see myself in ads for brands like this. It resulted in me going through quite the identity crisis and feeling undervalued by the world,鈥� Nyong鈥檕 said candidly. She recounted those early days 鈥� staring at glossy magazine pages, searching for a face that mirrored her own, only to find none.
Now, she imagines a little girl somewhere, watching her in a Chanel campaign, seeing someone who looks like her 鈥� someone who is elegant, celebrated, and valued.
鈥淚 would hope that there is a message for little girls,鈥� she continued. 鈥淢y work as an actor and as an author, as a podcast maker, and now as a brand ambassador, is to change that by just occupying the space.鈥� It is a powerful reminder of the transformative impact of representation; when someone finally occupies a space that was once empty, it changes the way people see themselves and the world around them.
The luxury sector has frequently been accused of tokenism and superficial diversity efforts 鈥� making short-term gestures without genuine long-term change. Nyong鈥檕 is determined to make her role count, embodying the idea that representation must come with influence and purpose.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
