PARIS (AP) 鈥� The sweltering Paris heat wave, leaving exhausted fashionistas nearly baked in the leafy courtyard of an esteemed Sorbonne University campus, met its stylish adversary: Sacai鈥檚 spring men鈥檚 co-ed fashion show. The biting Parisian heat was momentarily forgotten as attendees, clutching eco-water for relief, were drawn into Sacai鈥檚 final display for this season鈥檚 Paris Fashion Week.
This year, designer and founder Chitose Abe ventured into Sacai鈥檚 signature codes while drawing from the spirit of the 70s punk movement, a cultural emblem of resistance during a world in flux. The result was a creative dialogue between fashion鈥檚 past and future, between rebellion and uniformity.
Here are some highlight's of Sunday's spring-summer 2024 collections:
SACAI MIXES IT UP
Abe鈥檚 exploration of uniformity emerged in a head-to-toe approach, matching jackets, shirts, and pants in either pinstripe, denim, or floral print, demonstrating the designer鈥檚 skill at reinventing traditional fabrics into a unified look.
Classic suiting was 鈥渉ybridized,鈥� as the house called it, as Abe blended denim with suiting fabrics and spliced floral print with 1940s French workwear-inspired moleskin. Cutting and sewing techniques allowed these prints to live anew as appliqu茅 details. It was a fabulous touch.
The experiment with traditional suiting fabrics, from pinstripe and tweed to cotton gabardine, took a different turn through with folded pleats. This allowed Abe to surreally shrink proportions and create innovative silhouettes, visible in generous peplums, pants and skirts, and intricate folds within knitwear.
She continued to redefine the familiar. Abe embraced a fun 鈥渋nside out鈥� idea, inverting common clothing styles for a fresh perspective. Notably, a sleeveless trench was restructured, its fabric slashed and condensed for a slimmer shape.
The collection culminated with a refreshingly hopeful declaration: 鈥淜now Future.鈥� A playful reinterpretation of punk鈥檚 infamous proclamation, this statement anchored Sacai鈥檚 collection in an optimistic anticipation of a better world to come 鈥� even as the world around us now appears bleak.
Sacai鈥檚 show was the grand finale to Paris Fashion Week, a testament to Abe鈥檚 ability to captivate critics and audiences alike. As the sun set on Paris, Sacai鈥檚 spring men鈥檚 fashion show offered a defiant, hopeful end to a week marked by style and creativity.
WOOYOUNGMI: SENSUALITY MEETS STREET
Wooyoungmi鈥檚 Sunday show at Paris Fashion Week was a fusion of funk and sex appeal. The brand鈥檚 craftsmanship was apparent in the refined collection presented to the audience, which was humorously given pearly silk sleeping masks, acknowledging the concluding day of an intense week.
The collection exhibited Wooyoungmi鈥檚 mastery over fabric manipulation and fit. Every piece, from oversized sheer chemises with teasing ruffles to the pearly silken shorts, was cut to perfection, expertly tailored to create a visual spectacle while maintaining a sophisticated look. Each stitch and seam bore testament to Wooyoungmi鈥檚 attention to detail.
The South Korean brand鈥檚 craft was not only seen in the sensual pieces but also the streetwear elements. A seemingly casual baseball cap was carefully paired with baggy jeans and a sheer, oversized basketball shirt - a composition that celebrated both the structure of sports attire and the sensual mood of the collection. The elements came together to form an intriguingly athletic yet sensual silhouette, showcasing Wooyoungmi鈥檚 design prowess.
But it was perhaps the billowing, sheeny cargo pants that best illustrated Wooyoungmi鈥檚 craftsmanship. The unique piece featured voluminous ruching at the bottom, creating an imaginative, timeless design that somehow seemed both historic and futuristic.
QUEER ELEGANCE EMBRACED BY SAINT SERNIN
French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin showed his Spring Summer 2024 menswear collection in Paris, marking a return to his roots with 鈥淟ust,鈥� a celebration of queer desire, joy and power. He offered an elegant wardrobe embracing queer expression.
Key pieces included airy mermaid skirts, gowns with contrasting leather busts and lightweight tailoring, all meticulously crafted from gossamer Japanese tweeds. Front-laced leather corsets mirrored the design of the brand鈥檚 signature bag.
The collection upheld the brand's penchant for leather, evident in minimal moto racer jackets, harnessed bralettes and lace-up briefs. Cropped denim jackets and relaxed jeans were presented in an earthy palette, while shimmering Swarovski-sponsored crystal mesh was employed in net-hemmed gowns and halterneck tops.
The 鈥淟ust鈥� collection reaffirmed Saint Sernin鈥檚 commitment to celebrating nuanced, proud queer identity.
BED J.W. FORD UNVEILS COLLECTION WITH A TWIST
On a sunny Sunday in Paris, Shinpei Yamagishi鈥檚 label, BED j.w. FORD, debuted its latest collection with a fashion-forward summer flair. This show clearly carried forward Yamagishi鈥檚 signature approach of blending personal nostalgia with a distinct contemporary outlook.
The collection was abound with funky striped baggy shorts, loose white cotton vests, and straw-colored hats, giving a nod to the leisurely essence of summer. However, Yamagishi, ever the master of juxtaposition, disrupted this breezy feel subtly with elements of urban wear such as clunky city loafers and oversized suede boots adorned with zippers.
The collection smoothly transitioned into an array of loose suits that managed to toe the line between relaxed and refined. A standout piece was Yamagishi鈥檚 take on workman鈥檚 blue pants with a utilitarian zipper horizontally across the crotch, striking a balance between functional and trendy.
Staying true to BED j.w. FORD鈥檚 inclination for gender-fluid fashion, the collection introduced golden animal print skirt-shorts, paired intriguingly under a soft black women鈥檚 jacket with a chain hem. This playful mix of feminine and masculine elements highlighted Yamagishi鈥檚 skillful design ethos and reaffirmed the brand鈥檚 standing as an fashion forward player.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
