The 3rd annual Squamish Mountain Festival presented by Arc'teryx is less than a week away, the highway banner has been strung up, tents are being pitched, and the visiting climbers are starting to arrive. Some are here for the first time while others are returning to push themselves harder or to reflect on past victories.
Among them are Squamish climbing legends Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser and Greg Foweraker, who will be presented with an award commemorating their 1982 free ascent of the University Wall route up the Stawamus Chief at a ceremony next week.
"In 1982, that route was as way out there as we could climb. If it had been just a touch harder we may not have got up it then," said Croft. "Being up there and trying that hard route with your best friends was about as good as climbing could get."
On Thursday, Aug. 13 at the Howe Sound Brew Pub, festival organizers will be presenting the Jim Baldwin Memorial Award to the past and present day recipients for recognition of climbs that represent boldness, innovation or significance to the history of Squamish climbing.
A three-foot tall steel and wood trophy will be inscribed with the names of the winners and the routes completed. According to festival co-ordinator Ivan Hughes.
"The idea was to commemorate the ground-breaking climbs of past generations and acknowledging the great climbs that are still happening out there today."
Jim Baldwin was known for his participation in many ascents in Squamish, including the area's first technical climb in 1958. He also wrote the first Squamish climbing guide, made the first ascent of Grand Wall with Ed Cooper in 1961, and traveled to Yosemite Valley where he completed the first ascent of Dihedral Wall on El Capitan in 1962. In 1964, Baldwin died in a rappelling accident at Washington Column.
This year the festival chose to acknowledge the climbing of a route that set a new standard of boldness in Squamish. The first free ascent of University Wall (5.12a), was one of the worlds hardest long free climbs of the day, and had haunted Croft for a long time.
"I had dreamed relentlessly about this climb," he once wrote. "Once in a while I'd hike up to it but it would leer at me. And I would flee, casting fearful glances over my shoulder."
He spent some time on the big walls in Yosemite Valley and bolstered his confidence, then returned for another look. Most locals at the time doubted he or anyone else was capable of pulling it off. But Croft managed to talk two friends into joining him, a cheerful Foweraker and an enthusiastic 15-year-old Fraser, who was forced to wear his climbing shoes on the wrong feet because his toes were wore out.
The Shadow pitch proved to be the crux. It was a dark shadowed dihedral without any significant holds, where only tenuous moves and calf pumping stems allowed for movement up the each millimeter of rock.
The three climbers unlocked the key to climbing the route over four days and descended in pouring rain. But Croft wasn't satisfied, and later returned with Fraser to climb it free again, this time in a single push.
Throughout his climbing career Croft has remained true to his passion of climbing, he was never one to search out the limelight. Croft is modest and humble, and has never let the world of sponsorship or notoriety entice him away from the mountains he loves. His friend Fraser still lives and plays in Squamish and Foweraker visits often. All three will be on hand to receive the award.
The festival runs from Aug. 12 to 16 and tickets are available at Climb On, Valhalla Pure, the Squamish Adventure and on-line at www.squamishmountainfestival.com.
